Furniture Care Guide

Oiled oak

Made from solid European oak with a pigmented hardwax oil finish.

What the finish is doing

Hardwax oil soaks into the timber rather than sitting on top of it. That's why oiled oak feels like wood rather than plastic, and why a scratch can be sanded out and re-oiled instead of being permanent. The trade-off is that it's a working finish: it wants a little attention, and it will patina.

Every day

A dry cloth for dust. A damp cloth and natural soap for anything sticky, always along the grain, then dried off with something soft. Skip anything with detergent, solvent or bleach in it — those strip the oil.

When it needs reviving

Every year or two, or when the surface starts looking thirsty, the hardwax coat can be renewed. Osmo Hardwax Oil Natural (3041) is the right product. For a stain or a light scratch, sand the whole surface first — not just the mark, or you'll leave a patch — always along the grain. Make sure it's clean and dry, spread the oil evenly, and wipe off the excess or it dries blotchy.

What's normal

Oak darkens slightly and warms up over the first year. Grain, knots and colour vary board to board; that's the point of solid timber.

The short version

• Dust with a dry cloth. For anything more, use a damp cloth and a natural soap — no detergents.
• Wipe in the direction of the grain, then dry with a soft clean cloth so it doesn't spot.
• Blot spills immediately. Oil resists stains but won't stop them.
• Use coasters and placemats; heat and repeated wear will mark the finish.
• Move vases and pots around now and then, and dry any water that pools underneath.

Varnished timber

Made from solid timber with a protective varnish topcoat.

What the finish is doing

Varnish is a coating that sits on the surface, sealing the timber underneath. It's harder-wearing than oil and shrugs off spills more readily, which is why it turns up on desks and dining tables. The flip side is that damage can't be spot-repaired the way an oiled surface can — so prevention matters more.

Every day

Dry cloth for dust; damp cloth and natural soap for the rest, working along the grain, then dried. Nothing abrasive, nothing solvent-based, and no steel wool.

Protecting the coating

Coasters under glasses, placemats under hot dishes, and something soft under anything that lives on the surface permanently. Repeated heat is what dulls a varnish first.

The short version

• Dust with a dry cloth. For cleaning, use a damp cloth and a natural soap — no detergents.
• Wipe along the grain and dry with a soft cloth to avoid spotting.
• Wipe spills straight away; varnish resists stains but isn't stain-proof.
• Use coasters and placemats — heat and heavy daily use will damage the coating.
• Never use abrasives or solvents; they'll cut through the varnish.

Upholstered fabric

Upholstered in a durable woven textile over a solid frame.

Washing — usually don't

Unless there's a label saying otherwise, the covers aren't washable. Even a cool machine or hand wash will shrink the fabric and lift the colour, and it won't go back on the way it came off. Spot-clean instead, and use a professional upholstery cleaner for anything serious.

Everyday care

Vacuum with the upholstery head — it's the single thing that most extends the life of a fabric sofa, because grit works like sandpaper between the fibres. Plump and rotate the cushions while you're there.

Pilling is normal

Little balls of fibre on the surface aren't a fault. They're loose fibre, often picked up from blankets and clothing, and they stop appearing once the excess works its way out. A fabric shaver takes them off cleanly.

Protecting it

A water-based textile protector sprayed onto clean, dry fabric helps it repel liquid and resist marks, and can be reapplied after a deep clean.

The short version

• Vacuum regularly with an upholstery attachment to lift dust and crumbs.
• Blot spills immediately with a clean, dry cloth — blot, don't rub.
• Don't machine or hand wash the covers unless the label says you can; washing shrinks and lightens them.
• Plump and rotate the cushions so they wear evenly and keep their shape.
• Keep it out of direct sunlight to stop the colour fading.

Aniline leather

Upholstered in full-aniline leather over a solid frame.

What aniline leather is

Aniline is leather dyed right through rather than coated on top. There's little or no surface treatment, which is why it's so soft and why it keeps the character of the hide — the grain, the subtle colour shifts, the occasional natural marking. Those aren't flaws. They're the reason to buy it.

How it ages

It will patina. Colour deepens, the hide softens further, and the places you sit most will read differently from the places you don't. A piece three years in looks better than it did new, which is not true of coated leather.

Cleaning

Never wash or dry-clean it. Wipe it down with a clean dry cloth regularly. For spills, blot with a dry white cloth — pressing, not rubbing — and work from the outside of the mark inwards so you don't spread a ring. Use a cleaner and protector formulated for aniline, and test it somewhere out of sight first.

Keep it out of the sun

Direct sunlight is what discolours aniline fastest, because there's no pigment layer shielding the dye.

The short version

• Wipe down regularly with a clean, dry cloth.
• Blot spills at once with a dry white cloth — don't rub, and don't soak the hide.
• Never wash or dry-clean the upholstery; use a leather cleaner and conditioner made for aniline.
• Condition occasionally to keep the hide supple.
• Keep it out of direct sun and away from heaters; a patina will develop, and that's the point.

Natural teak

Made from solid teak, polished only — no finish or protective coating.

What the finish is doing

Nothing — and that's deliberate. Teak is polished so its own oils rise to the surface, and the density of the timber does the work a coating would normally do. It feels wonderful and it ages beautifully, but it is the least protected finish we sell.

Sealing it from new

If the piece is going somewhere that sees food, drink or small children, seal it before it goes into service. Occulto Oil (9911) closes the pores and gives you a buffer. Spills still need wiping straight away.

Fixing marks

Because there's no coating to cut through, natural teak is the most forgiving timber to repair. Extra-fine sandpaper, always along the grain, will lift most stains and surface scratches.

The short version

• Dust with a dry cloth; clean with a damp cloth and natural soap, along the grain.
• Blot spills immediately — untreated timber takes a mark faster.
• Consider sealing it from new with Occulto Oil (9911) for everyday protection.
• Stubborn marks and light scratches can be sanded out with extra-fine paper, along the grain.
• Use coasters and placemats, and keep it out of direct sun.

Minerals and microcement

Hand-finished in a mineral and microcement blend, so every piece is unique.

Hand-finished, so no two match

These finishes are built up by hand using a blend of minerals, which means variation in colour, texture and light reflection is inherent to the piece rather than a defect. If you're buying two, expect them to be siblings, not twins.

Cleaning

A soft dry cloth for dust; mild soap and warm water for anything more, rinsed and wiped dry. Nothing abrasive and nothing acidic — steel wool, bleach, chlorine and mineral acids all damage the sealed surface permanently.

Spills

The seal buys you time, not immunity. Oil, wine and citrus in particular want wiping up straight away.

The short version

• Dust with a soft, dry cloth; clean with mild soap and warm water, then wipe dry.
• Wipe spills immediately — the surface is sealed, but porous underneath.
• Use coasters and placemats, especially under anything oily or acidic.
• Never use steel wool, abrasives, mineral acids, bleach or chlorine cleaners.
• Expect variation in colour, texture and the way it catches the light.

Varnished tray

Varnished with a protective topcoat to resist coffee, tea and wine.

What it's built for

The topcoat is there to shrug off the things trays actually meet — coffee, tea, wine. It is not a guarantee, and it isn't built for a commercial setting with constant washing and heavy repetitive handling.

Cleaning

A dry cloth for dust, furniture polish and a soft cloth for a proper clean. Glass and mirror inserts take a neutral glass cleaner. Coasters under hot cups, always.

The short version

• Dust with a dry cloth; use a furniture polish and a soft cloth for a deeper clean.
• Wipe glass and mirror surfaces with a neutral glass cleaner and a soft cloth.
• Use coasters — the topcoat resists marks but won't stop a hot cup.
• Wipe spills straight away.
• Made for decorative and household use, not commercial service.

Outdoor

Built for outdoor use, in materials chosen to weather well.

Weathering is the deal

Outdoor timber moves and changes. Untreated teak goes silver-grey with sun and rain, and some surface cracking is normal as the piece adapts — it isn't a structural problem. If you want it to stay honey-coloured, it needs a teak protector applied and reapplied.

Everyday care

Brush off leaves and crumbs dry rather than grinding them in with a wet cloth. For cleaning, a damp cloth and a natural soap. Skip the detergents and anything harsh.

Through winter

A fitted rain cover through the off-season and in bad weather is the single biggest thing you can do for outdoor furniture — it keeps water, wind and frost off the joints and the cushions.

The short version

• Dust off leaves and crumbs with a dry cloth or soft brush.
• Clean with a damp cloth and natural soap — no detergents or harsh chemicals.
• Wipe spills immediately, and use placemats to prevent incidental marks.
• Untreated teak will silver in sun and rain; some cracking and movement is normal.
• Use a fitted rain cover out of season or through bad weather.

General rules

These apply to every piece of solid timber and upholstered furniture in the store, whatever the finish.

1. Keep the room between 40% and 60% humidity. Solid timber breathes. Very dry or very damp rooms are what cause cupping and splitting, far more than everyday use.
2. Keep it out of direct sun. Sunlight shifts the colour of timber, leather and fabric alike. Move lamps, books and trays around from time to time so the surface ages evenly underneath them.
3. Stay away from heaters and air-conditioning outlets. A piece parked under a vent dries out on one side and moves unevenly.
4. Wipe spills straight away. Every finish here resists stains. None of them is stain-proof.
5. Always work in the direction of the grain. On timber, wiping across the grain leaves marks that catch the light.
6. Use coasters and placemats. Hot pans and cold glasses both leave rings, on varnish and oil alike.
7. Lift, never drag. Dragging damages the feet, the floor, and the joints all at once. Get a second pair of hands.
8. Keep floor-cleaning water away from the base. Mopping up against a timber foot leaves a permanent tide mark. If your piece has rubber glides, keep alcohol-based floor cleaners away from them too.
9. Indoor pieces are for indoors. If a piece is made for outside, it says so in the name.